Haute Horlogerie
Refinements that make Swiss watches so special
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Refinements that make Swiss watches so special
Guilloché and Engine turning
Any mistakes will entail having to start again from scratch
The effect entails creating intricate geometric designs or patterns (these can be straight lines or a circles) onto a surface, through the manual use of a lathe. Decoration using the guilloché technique requires the hand of a highly skilled watchmaker to create the finish, and any mistakes made in the pattern will entail having to start again from scratch.
Wheels
Finished with numerous techniques
The wheels are subjected to numerous finishing techniques, specifically for high-end watches. The machining marks are carefully eliminated. Their spokes can be chamfered on the upper and lower sides, sinks are polished – in high-end watches (such as watches with the Hallmark of Geneva). Their surface is circular satin-finished.
Screws
Thermally blued at precise temperatures
Even the smallest parts such as screws are subject to exquisite finishing embellishing the movement. Screws are polished to add brilliance. They are often blued, a traditional finish with captivating hues. High-end manufactures still work using century-old gestures. Screw heads are finished by hand to a mirror polish, rubbing them patiently. They are then thermally blued. During this delicate process performed with a flame for small productions, screws must be heated at a very precise temperature to obtain the desired colour.
Engravings
hand-made personalization
Engraving is generally used to present hallmarks or various information, predominantly starting with the brand itself on the movement. It can also be used to decorate and personalize the parts with true work of arts.
Jewel sink polishing
Exposing the jewels
A concave chamfer around the screw heads or jewels is carved and polished. The hole has been previously machined. The irregular rims of the drilled holes may be polished by hand.
Geneva Stripes
wavy patterns
A Geneva stripe refers to one of the most traditional types of decoration, consisting of applying regular parallel wave-like patterns to the parts, for instance, plates, bridges and rotors. The stripes can be straight or circular and shall always be aligned perfectly across the different parts.
Perlage
circular graining of hidden surfaces
Perlage is another traditional finish, also known as circular-graining or stippling, that consists in covering the surfaces of the plates or bridges, by applying a pattern of overlapping small circles with a rotating peg. Often, it is used on hidden surfaces, for example, the back of the main plate (below the dial) or recesses. This finish is one of the few not to be entirely automatized and usually, a watchmaker’s hand is required to apply circular graining.
Anglage
hand-bevelling of edges
Anglage refers to bevelling or chamfering. It consists of bevelling their edges to the same angle (in general 45°) and width, performed in particular on bridges and plates. The rim, meticulously polished, highlights the shape of the part. The anglage must be regular and smooth. It is one of the most delicate finishing techniques, but also one of the most widely used.